Guides ›
A total-loss offer is the insurer's estimate of your car's actual cash value. It is built from a valuation report, usually produced by software from vendors such as CCC, Mitchell or Audatex. Like any estimate, it can rest on wrong inputs. Here is a calm, step-by-step way to check it and push back in writing.
You can't check an offer without the report behind it. Texas regulators suggest asking the insurer what source it used to value your car [1], and the Texas Office of Public Insurance Counsel (OPIC) recommends asking how the value was determined and checking that options, mileage, condition and deductions are correct [2]. Some states write this into regulation. In Washington, insurers must give you a true and accurate copy of the valuation report if you ask [3]. In California, the cost of a comparable vehicle must be "fully itemized and explained in writing" when the offer is made [4].
Ask for: the full valuation report, including every comparable vehicle and every adjustment, in writing (email is fine).
Small input errors cause big swings. Compare page one of the report against your registration, window sticker or build sheet, and a recent odometer photo or service invoice:
OPIC notes that custom parts, upgrades and recent maintenance often don't raise the payout, but you can still submit receipts, because some items (such as a rebuilt motor) can add value [2].
The valuation is usually anchored to "comparables": similar cars for sale or recently sold. Rules on what counts as comparable vary, but two states spell it out:
Even outside those states, these are useful yardsticks. Flag comparables that are a different trim or year, far away, or impossible to verify.
Look at each plus or minus applied to the comparables and to your car. California requires adjustments to be "discernible, measurable, itemized, and specified as well as appropriate in dollar amount," and bars condition deductions unless the documented condition of the loss vehicle is below average for its year, make and model [4]. Washington requires offers to be based on itemized and verifiable dollar amounts and requires insurers to consider relevant information you supply [3].
Pay special attention to across-the-board deductions labeled as a "projected sold adjustment" or "typical negotiation adjustment." These reduce comparable list prices on the theory that buyers negotiate. They have been the subject of litigation, and Washington's rule has been read to prohibit them [6]. See our guide to common valuation report errors.
Whether sales tax, title and registration fees are added to the settlement depends on your state and policy. California's regulation requires the cash settlement to include applicable taxes and one-time transfer fees, plus prorated license fees [4], and Washington's requires applicable government taxes and fees to be included [3]. If your report says tax and fees are "not included," ask whether they'll be paid.
Texas regulators suggest getting quotes from used-car dealers, looking at local ads for similar vehicles, and documenting special features [1]. Keep in mind OPIC's caution that an asking price is typically more than a car actually sells for [2], so the strongest evidence is several close matches (same year, trim and similar miles) near you. Save screenshots with the date, price, mileage, VIN and seller.
Keep it short and factual. List each error, what the correct fact is, the proof you're attaching, and what you're asking them to do (for example: "re-run the valuation as a Long Range AWD using same-trim comparables within 150 miles"). Ask for a written response and a revised report.
Some states let you reopen the claim if you can't buy a comparable car for the settlement amount. In California and Washington, the window is 35 days, with conditions [3][4]. Check your state's rules before you assume the claim is closed.
TotaledRight's free error check reads your insurer's valuation report and flags common problems. The full report ($49) adds local comparables, a value range and a ready-to-send letter. Join the waitlist.
TotaledRight is not a law firm, appraiser or public adjuster. This guide summarizes public sources as of the review date; regulations change. Check your own policy and your state insurance department.